Tonight I completed Martha’s Salsa Trinity with her Pico de Gallo from page 290.
I also had some Salsa Verde and Roasted Tomato Salsa leftovers so we were able to sample all three tonight. Jeff liked the pico de gallo the best. He loved the fresh tomatoes, spicy peppers and the prominent flavor of the cilantro. I was torn between the salsa verde, because you know how I love tomatillos, and the roasted tomato salsa because I’m such a fan of sweet roasted veggies.
All of these salsas used cilantro. Cilantro provides an interesting flavor that some people love and some people hate. It has hints of lemon and lime that lends itself nicely to acidic foods and is also an effective cooling element in hot and spicy dishes. But as I mentioned, it’s a polarizing herb — even the great Julia Child declared her hatred of cilantro, once saying had a “dead taste” to her. Some people compare the taste and smell to soap. I’ve also met chefs who think it’s the greatest herb ever and add it to almost everything they cook!
So where do I stand on the great cilantro debate? I’d place myself somewhere in the middle. I don’t like cilantro to be a prominent flavor in my food, which is why the pico de gallo was my least favorite of the salsas. However, when it’s used in a subtle way, I think it adds something unique that you just can’t get from other herbs. It’s used quite a bit in both Mexican and Indian cooking. I believe the aversion to it is mainly a European thing as it doesn’t fit neatly into the flavor box of more typical herbs like basil and thyme. I like any challenge to traditional seasoning which I believe places me squarely in the “pro-cilantro” camp.
Still, of the three salsas, the pico de gallo was good, but a bit cilantro heavy for my personal taste. The salsa verde was quite tart with great citrus notes. The roasted tomato salsa was sweet and brought out the spicy peppers the best of any of them. My suggestion is to make all three for your next party and let your guests decide which one suits their tastes best.